Osh

Written by Sandeep Nehra

Osh is second biggest city of republican subordination in Kyrgyzstan and also the administrative center of Osh region. The population of Osh is 218.8 thousand as per records of year 2003. Osh is located in the eastern part of the Ferghana valley, on the river Ak-Buura.

Osh is one of the ancient Sogdian (Persian), the Central Asian cities. The exact date of its origin is not known. Several legends associate it with the base name of Alexander of Macedon, and even the Prophet Solomon (Suleiman). The earliest infomation of the city is found in the chronicles in the IX century. The appearance of the city is connected with the settlement of the ancient farmers of the Bronze Age, discovered on the southern slope of the Suleiman Mountains. Further development of the city took place due to the geographical position. It is located in the fertile valley at the foot of the Pamir and Pamir-Alai. By virtue of its placement Osh is the point of intersection of the trade caravan routes from India and China to Europe. In the X century passes through it en route to China and India (including the Great Silk Road) in 1876, annexed to Russia (after the conquest of the Khanate of Kokand) since 1876 – county town from 1939 – the center of the Osh region. In 1990, in Osh, ethnic clashes have taken place, the so-called massacre of Osh, which has exacerbated the situation in the Ferghana Valley. Also, Osh has become one of the first cities gone under the control of the opposition during the Tulip Revolution.

Osh was one of the religious centers of Muslim Central Asia. The most famous of ancient mosques in the city center, as well as the mountain of Sulaiman-Too (Takht-i-Sulaiman, the Throne of Solomon), which is one of the places of pilgrimage for Central Asian Muslims.

Osh is the second largest city in Kyrgyzstan and called “the southern capital, a city located in the east of the Fergana Valley, at an altitude of 1000 meters above sea level. Today, the ancient town is the administrative center of Osh region. This is a major economic and cultural center with a population of about 250,000 people, has retained a unique charm of the ancient East.

Osh is surrounded by hills and high rocky ridges of the Alai Range from three sides. While virtually under the roof of the world, everywhere you feel the breath of the mighty and majestic mountains of the Pamir-Alai. But the main evidence of their presence – this is, of course, five-domed Suleiman Mountain (Sulayman Mountain), rising in the heart of the city. This is one of the spurs of the Alai Range in the form of rock higher than 100 m. The Sacred Sulaiman Mountain – Takht-Sulaiman (“Throne of Suleiman”) is named after the legendary biblical King Solomon. Legend has it that he once visited the town and the mountain. Mount Takht Suleiman still in the early Middle Ages had a religious significance for all believers, especially for the fire-worshipers. There is even a suggestion that the prophet Zoroaster and the creator of the holy book “Avesta” Zarathustra (Zoroaster) lived and created his teaching in the cave is on the mountain Sulaiman-Too. Here, there was one of the earliest temples of the Zoroastrian cult of water-fire (the temple of the river Ohsho, jaxsi-Osh and fire). Perhaps the name of the city is just from these words. Hundreds of petro glyphs carved on the rocky outcrops of the mountain, the stone slabs on the walls of caves and grottos.

Particularly curious can climb on the mountain itself, which offers an excellent view of the city of Osh. Here he is seen as the palm of your hand, it is possible for a long time to stand and admire the magnificent scenery: the bottom – seething urban life, far away – everything is quiet and confident Great Mountains. Another attraction of the mountains is an architectural monument, mono polar mosque Takht-Suleiman which is unique in its location, because it was built on the eastern summit of Mount Suleyman-Too, at a height of almost 150 meters. In recent decades, this structure was associated with the name of Muhammad Zakhiriddin Babur, a descendant of Timur (Tamerlane) and called the house of Babur.

At the foot of the mountains is most famous mosque of the city (the mausoleum of Asaf-ibn-Burhiya (XI-XVII cc.) Mosque Rawat-Abdullakhan (XVII-XVIII cc.) Mosque of Mohammed Yusuf Bayhodzhi-Ogly (1909). Mausoleum Asaf ibn Buhra – architectural monument XVIII – XIX centuries is situated at the foot of the eastern slope of Sulaiman-Too. According to folk legends mausoleum is named after a mythical king associate Sulaiman (Solomon) ibn Buhra Asaph, to be buried after his death at the foot of this mountain that, according to legend, was done. And over the grave of him was erected architectural construction of its long history has repeatedly destroyed and re-erected the new generations. The most significant religious buildings of the city (Madrasah Alymbekov Paravanchi Dutka, madrasas Muhamedboy Türk Hal Muratbaeva) are excellent examples of architectural and construction of the Fergana school.

There are many parks and historical and cultural monuments: Sadykbaya Mosque, the Mosque of Shahid-Tepa, medieval bath. Along with the monuments of Muslim worship, in the central square of the city is the city’s only monument of Russian Orthodox architecture of the early twentieth century, Michael the Archangel Church. This monument has managed to survive the hardships associated with the “cultural revolution” of Soviet power and in 1991 was returned to the Orthodox religious community. Unfortunately, the ancient Osh has not survived nor a fortress wall with three gates, or the citadel, surrounded by sacristan or mosque near Bazaar – another important symbol of the city, which has more than two thousand years. It’s a chaotic bazaar with its narrow streets, many kebab, and mountains of colorful spices, vegetables and local rickshaw. On the narrow streets of the bazaar is always shopping sprees amulets, talismans, potions and herbs. To some it seems unwise Eastern exoticism, someone confuses lack of comfort. The city has repeatedly tried to give the Osh Bazaar “Europeanized” view, but merchants along with the citizens stubbornly stood his ground. So it turns out now that the compact stores from time to time interspersed dispersed trading Morozhenoe (very tasty and very inexpensive), drinks, and watches – from one trader to another step. But, once here, you can be assured that you will find everything you are looking for. Another very pleasant and characteristic of the eastern markets – if you buy goods made here to bargain. The ancient city of Osh is a good starting point for hiking and mountain climbing and among foreigners is known primarily as a staging post towards alplageryu Pamir.

The third feature of the city – it is its good geographical location. From here you can get into one of the oldest cities in Uighur – a mysterious Kashgar, to rise in the Pamir and Tien-Shan mountains. Hence it is possible to pass to another part of the Fergana valley, under the jurisdiction of Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Let the city of Osh is not as landscaped as the capital of the country, it does not have many government and administrative buildings, its simplicity and tradition, without a doubt captivate arriving guests and when you have ahead of an exciting and adventurous journey, Osh for you to become the last island of civilization.

Legends relate foundation of the city with such characters in world history, as drevneizrail sky King Solomon (Suleiman) and the Greek ruler Alexander of Macedon. Osh was mentioned in the Arab sources IXV. Scientists are still unable to reach a consensus on the issue etymology of the name of the city. Ministers of religion are trying to link the origin of the city with the legends, but none of the legends did not explain, either the fact of the city or the etymology of its name.

Almost nothing left from the ancient city is. According to archeologists, the ancient Osh city was walled, had three gates, inside the citadel surrounded shahristan. Mosque located near the bazaar, not far from the river Ak-Bura. Osh was a major trading center on the Silk Road that linked the Mediterranean and the Middle East with the Pamirs, Tibet, China and India since ancient times, famous for its bazaars of Osh and caravanserais. The main bazaar is located on the left bank of the river Ak-Bura, and represents a classic example of the Eastern Market Hall – Tim. More than two millennia market lives its noisy and colorful life, changing their buildings and expand the border, but remained at the same place chosen by the ancients.

Osh also has a museum of the Great Silk Road. Unique exhibits tell about the milestones in the development of material world peoples region – from Stone Age to modern times. Basically it is the findings of archaeologists, historians, ethnographers.

One of the interesting exhibits is a map dating from about 1953. Map shows the various Kyrgyz clans and tribes (which is still a very important part of Kyrgyz society). In the center stands a monument Kurmanzhan Dutka – “Queen of the South”, known for resisting the Russian conquest. Her portrait adorns the bill in 50 SOM. And as a monument to Lenin, not far from the memorial dedicated to World War II with an inscription in Kyrgyz and Russian languages “Nobody is Forgotten – Nothing is forgotten.”

Osh Bazaar, which stretches about a kilometer along the river, described in many guidebooks as the most colorful in all of Central Asia. Near the bazaar is the biggest mosque in Kyrgyzstan – Mosque Shaida Tepa.

Originally a wooden building the mosque was built in the years 1908-1910, but later was closed by order of Soviet power and served as stables and smithy. The mosque was reopened only in 1943, a sign of religious tolerance in the Soviet government. In recent years, the mosque has undergone repairs made to the funds of Saudi Arabia and today it can accommodate up to 5000 believers.